Friday, 14 August 2015

Ch. 3 A PASSAGE TO CALCUTTA - THAT SUMMER AT HOME - Palghat Tales



That was the summer Thangam would remember as perhaps the best she had spent in the village, in a long time. It had been four years since she had been home, what with Dorai's maladies and Kannan, Papa and Meena's schooling. Chuppam would start school after the vacations.

Vaithy had booked one full-ticket and four half-tickets with berths and one half-ticket without a berth in the Ladies' Compartment of the Howrah-Madras Express, so the journey was comfortable. The other passenger in the compartment, was a young woman going to Vizag, to help her uncle, who was going to Hyderabad for a cataract surgery. She took one of the upper berths. From Vizag, the seat remained empty.

They were met at Olavakode by Aachu mama and Nambisan, who had come in a jeep. Thangam noticed there was a new, pucca road to the village from Aanayodi Junction, and the drive was smoother than before. There were new street lights at Cherumukku, and Nambisan explained that the panchayat had installed it just the month before. Some houses in the village even had taps now.

They saw Vishalapatti, standing outside the house, chatting to Alamelu, when the Jeep rounded the corner at Kupachchan's general store. The children tumbled out and ran to her! She beamed, as they flocked around her, patting their heads and cupping their faces in her palms. When Bhagyam alighted, they wiped their eyes, and disappeared into the nezhi.
Alamelu

Vaithy would join them three weeks later. By then, the children had gone native. Kannan and Pappa would join Aachu mama, as he inspected the fields and talked to the kudiyaans about the next crop season. They went with him when he supervised the harvesting of coconuts, when he bargained over the price of his copra; they got naadan-style hair-cuts from the village ambattan and bathed in the pond each morning and dusk. They learnt to swim and to catch tadpoles. They even went to town once.


For Meena and and Chuppam, they were times to learn about the intricacies of making rice vadaams and drying chundakkai. They watched Vishalapatti making chadachadaya paayasam and chakka veratti. She would make paalada for paalada pradhaman, and her young charges would soak it all up. The trees in the kollai were heavy with fruit. Mambhazha kootan, manga erisheri, chakka thoran, were all to be had. They watched as Vishalapatti churned butter, made ghee and turned out neiappams, using a needle-point with the precision of a surgeon wielding a scalpel.

Thangam, 12 years old
One day, Vaithy would catch Papa imitating Vishalapatti in front of a mirror. "Koshava!" (a potter); "kallukuDi manga!" (drunkard); and the ultimate epithet, "shavanDi kotta!" (a brahmin who eats shraddham feasts, and takes on the sins of the departed upon him. A necessary, but lowly function). For all her mildness, Vishalapatti would not be crossed. She had arrived as a 14-year-old child widow, and had been part of the family ever since. Bhagyam had no recollection of her parents. Aachu mama had moved in when they died, and he and Vishalapatti had brought her up.
 
Vishalapatti
They made longed-for visits. To Chottanikkara and Kodungallur. This was the first time Vishalapatti had left the village, in Bhagyam's recollection. She would forever remember the "makam darshanam" at Chottanikkara. The journeys by train and bus were strenuous. On the return journey, they went to Guruvayoor and Bhagyam conducted an "aalroopa nercha" for Dorai, presenting a silver eye to the Lord. Vaithy took Bhagyam to Ettumanoor. This time, they went alone, leaving the children behind.

When it would be time to leave, Vishalapatti stood outside, looking for an auspicious shakunam. At last, in the distance, she saw an elephant pass by. Satisfied, she would allow them to leave. As Aachu mama was sick, the embrandri's boy was deputed to escort them to the station.

As Anthappan's Landmaster rounded the corner, Thangam looked back. Vishalapatti was, once again, talking to Amminikutty and Alamelu.


Text: Shankar A. Narayan Photo credits: Ramdas Iyer and The British Library

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