THE UNIQUE STEP WELLS OF INDIA

Chand Baori step well 8th-9th c. Abhaneri, Rajasthan

CHAND BAORI - A SPECTACULAR 9TH c. STEP WELL. Step wells have existed in India since millennia. Wells have been found in Indus Valley cities from 3000 B.C. Most of the rainfall in India occurs in the three months of the monsoon. Ingenious methods of collecting water and retaining it have been developed in the sub-continent for thousands of years.

About 95 kms. from Jaipur, on the road to Agra is the tiny village of Abhaneri. There are no direct bus connections. The Chand Baori step well is the most spectacular example of step well to survive in India. This incredible square structure is 13 stories deep, and lined along the walls on three sides are double flights of steps. 3,500 narrow steps arranged in perfect symmetry descends to the bottom of the well 20 meters deep to a murky green puddle of water.

It was built between the 8th and 9th centuries by King Chanda of the Nikumbha Dynasty, it provided the surrounding areas with a dependable water source for centuries before modern water delivery systems were introduced. As the green water at the base attests, the well is no longer in use, but it makes for an interesting stop-over to an architecturally impressive structure that is over 1000 years old. It is the oldest step well in Rajasthan.

The well’s sheer endlessly appearing geometric complexity made of stairs and steps ensured that people had access to water at any time of the year, and from all sides. The large mouth of the well functioned as a rain catching funnel that contributed to the water seeping in from the porous rock at the bottom. In addition to conserving water, Chand Baori also became a community gathering place for the Abhaneri locals. The townsfolk used to sit around the step well and cool off during the summer days. At the bottom the well the air is always about 5-6 degrees cooler than at the top.

The steps surround the well on three sides while the fourth side has a set of pavilions built one atop another. The northern side has a multi-storeyed corridor supported on pillors and two projecting balconies enshrining beautiful images of Mahishasuramardini and Ganesha . The enclosure wall, the side veranda and the pavilion at the entrance are later additions.

The ASI takes care of the site and entrance to it is free.

AGRASEN KI BAOLI IN DELHI
This step well on Hailey Road, near Jantar Mantar is 60 m long and 15 m wide. It is named after Raja Agrasen of the Mahabharata. This was re-built during the 14th c. by the Agrawal community. The baoli has 103 steps and the lower part of it used to be permanently under water.

The stone walls of the Baoli, dressed with inventive designs with a series of arched structure are grim and desolate, but still beautiful. The wide rectangular step well, is made up of a series of superimposed arches supported on piers or columns.There are three levels in the visible area (the area which is above the water) of the Baoli, each of which is lined with arched niches on either sides. These allow the visitors to explore various alcoves and rooms that once may have been used as sites for retreat or puja.

Agrasen ki baoli, Delhi

OTHER BAOLIS IN DELHI
There are other baolis in Delhi like Gandhak ki baoli, The Gandhak ki Baoli was built by Iltutmish for Bakhtiar Kaki (a Sufi mystic responsible for establishing the Sufi order in Delhi). The Gandhak ki Baoli got its name from the smelly sulphur springs that fed the well. All that remains today are some carved pillars and the sulphur spring has given way to stagnant water.

The Nizamuddin baoli. The construction of this step-well began at the same time as Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq began building his massive Tughlaqabad fort. The emperor wanted all the masons in the land to work on his fort alone. They could not undertake any other project. However, Nizamuddin was keen on having the Baoli built at the same time. So the masons worked on the fort during the day and on the Baoli by night. In a fit of pique, the emperor cut off the supply of oil to Ghiyaspur (present day Nizamuddin) so that there would be no light to work on the Baoli at night. The story goes that Nizamuddin lit the lamps with water and cursed the emperor, saying that his fort would remain deserted on completion.

Rajon ki baoli, Delhi

The Rajon ki Baoli is simply grand. Of all the Baolis, it was the most ornamental. Built by Sikander Lodhi in the 16th century, ‘Rajon' refers not to the kings but to the masons who built it.

Tomb, Rajon ki baoli

Text by Shankar A. Narayan and Sudharshana Srinivasan Photo credits: Michael Weening, Vishal Shankar, 'The Hindu', Breakaway